When we weren’t looking, Ballard’s gently Asian bistro quietly became one of the most ambitious Mexican-influenced restaurants in town. Credit to owner Jen Doak for being unafraid to shift continents when Angela Ortez-Davis replaced original chef Mike Whisenhunt. Now hibiscus tacos pack dramatic color and subtle sweetness, and a lengthy marinade renders grilled pork shoulder tender as al pastor. Ortez-Davis likes to surprise: Chicharrones are actually pork confit with delicate threads of crunch, and a Mexican take on pasta might sound dubious until you experience perfect tagliatelle coated with an achiote-spiced take on cream sauce, topped with crunchy pepitas. The charming farmhouse vibe and the insanely charming patio remain thankfully the same.