One of the last serious dinner houses in Belltown is this square room with high-backed booths and cozy spaces, swathed in autumnal hues—a bona fide warm restaurant in a city smitten with the stark and minimal. Here the friendly welcome, rustic fare, and affordable price tags (most entrees under $20) all lack pretension. The chef's hand stays firmly on the Italian tiller, turning out housemade pappardelle Bolognese, panzanella starring handmade mozzarella, branzino with frisee salad, and perfect pizza crust.