No, Ethan and Angela Stowell haven’t opened a chicken restaurant (not yet, at least) but a whole fried Mad Hatcher bird is the showpiece at their new Ballard Ave gastropub. It arrives, amidst the room’s bookcases and wainscoting and tasteful faux taxidermy, heaped in a ceramic dish—enough to stuff two hungry adults or feed three or four people hoping to save room for anything else. An overnight dry rub means you taste the peppery spice mix deep down within the juicy meat rather than in the (properly crunchy) crust. Each bird comes with buttery grits and bacony collard greens. If you’d rather not share, Bramling does a half chicken with biscuits at brunch.