It's far too chic and teeming, its wine list and bar pours much too notable for food to make up this much of its soul. But Belltown's sleek Black Bottle wine bar, with its bare wood and blond tables—not to say bare arms and blonde beauties—has attracted a rabid following based on “blasted” broccoli and lemon curd-ricotta cake, and a whole lot of intentional innovations in between. Flaky flatbreads might be speckled with prosciutto and béchamel or smoked chicken and sun-dried cherries; a meaty hank of hanger steak arrives in its potent juices alongside a cloud of shredded daikon and shiso. These not-so-small plates, ranging in price from $5-ish to $12-ish, are culinary masterpieces for some, booze ballast for others, and early breakfast (BB serves food till 2am most nights) for the truly indefatigable. But make no mistake: This ain't your daddy's bar food.