If Bill Gates wanted to drop in to his neighborhood restaurant, this would be the place: A Main Street storefront, having overcome an initial generic quality, is now the dining room of choice for West Bellevue gentry seeking to entertain, conduct business, or give their own chef the night off. It's a classy room, determinedly neutral, hung with oversize oils, and staffed by a fleet of pros. The menu holds no surprises—a fish of the day, a rack of lamb, crab cakes, a noble New York steak. The surprise is in the assurance and intention on every plate, from dishes like gilded gnocchi in a lemony pea sauce bright with chervil to duck slices fanned over a cloud of truffled mashed potatoes in foie gras sauce. Owner Joe Vilardi, an alum of Il Terrazzo Carmine, knows everyone by name.