Tender is the meat falling off the pork ribs at Barbecue Smith in Roosevelt, where meat spends quality time in the smoker while Chuck Shin—of none other than Chuck’s Hop Shop—keeps an impressive range of beer flowing across 25 taps. Should you want to kick things up, there are three house barbecue sauces, but the spiciest, crunchiest fixin’ in this joint is kimchi made by Shin’s own mom.