One of Portland’s favorite sushi restaurants has landed at U Village, in a space as vast as Bamboo’s ambitions for sustainable seafood. Rigorous transparency and certification standards surround every piece of sashimi, but the menu’s big and has a sense of adventure—albacore dotted with shiitakes and smoked onions, even a riff on orange chicken that coats fried cauliflower in a sticky, spicy sauce. Bamboo doesn’t automatically put soy sauce on the table, but isn’t too precious to deploy apple, fried sage, and lime zest in a crab and salmon roll.