Westman’s Bagel and Coffee occupies the walkup counter at 1509 East Madison, a humble spot with a surprisingly noble lineage that includes Little Uncle and Manu’s Bodegita. Now open daily, it serves a half-dozen varieties of Westman’s bagels, plus plenty of schmears. Look for flavors like sesame, salt, pumpernickel, and the classic “everything,” made with spices from Villa Jerada. In other words, don’t come here expecting sugar bomb bagels, though there is a version made with cinnamon and currants.