It’s official: Columbia City is no longer the next Ballard. It’s way out ahead of it. Verve Wine Bar seals the deal, in a room so worldly—sophisticated amber light pendants glow upon soft celery walls—yet so welcoming (even to kids) the very seating arrangement feels like an embrace. A small retail section anchors one side of the airy, windowed room; a tasting bar another. But the best action happens wherever the food and the wine collide: When you order a glass of malbec along with a small chevre and arugula salad, perhaps, or an uncommonly beautiful cheese plate all arted up with herb sprigs and fruit drizzles. A bistro menu features dazzling full plates, perhaps Oregon sablefish in a miso beurre blanc or a killer half-pound burger with garlic aioli and an egg. You can buy your wine by the bottle from the retail store ($10 corkage fee), or in glasses off a thoughtful and concise list that bops from California to France to Argentina to Spain and back to Oregon’s pinot country.