Among the myriad pleasures available at Columbia City’s neighborhood fish house—fresh daily oysters; an ever-so-lightly-tweaked rendition of the fried calamari from the owner’s other restaurant, Hue Ky Mi Gia; and seafood preparations that mostly transcend cliche, like a crab and sweet corn soup featuring chunks of crab and cod marinated in fish sauce, all bold ginger and serrano chili and herbs, married with a confident hand. An oyster bar in back welcomes connoisseurs; two big screens over the bar bar welcome everyone else.