The dim sum at Bellevue’s Top Gun restaurant has always been top-drawer, so about a zillion Chinese-food fans were delighted at the news the owners planned to spread the love westward. The result is O’Asian, off downtown’s Bank of America plaza—a sprawling stunner of white light and black lacquer with a more refined design and a more modern aesthetic than one generally encounters with dim sum. When the carts roll around—which they do, happily, every day of the week—they reveal beautiful handcrafted dumplings and daikon cakes, pork buns and crispy tofu, and all the other suspects, usual and unusual, that make dim sum such a feast of surprises. The regular menu is more hit-and-miss, with beautiful presentations of dishes like honey-walnut prawns and hand-shaved noodles that may or may not feature flavor. Great service.