Ethan Stowell and longtime deputy Michael Gifford present a vibrant challenge to prix-fixe’s fusty rap. Casual diners packed into the narrow, low-lit, brick-and-timber room talk across tables and swill volubly at the bar. Most choose the chef’s choice menu—five courses for $65—which might include a Dungeness Crab Salad with braised beet, tarragon, and avocado; honeyed fois gras butter for the ficelle; a sweet corn risotto dusted with pepper, herbs, grana padano, and heaps of heady summer black truffle.