How is it that the fourth-largest foreignborn population in King County has so few restaurants, you can tote them up on two hands? "We’re a culture of home cooks," offers Bert Caoili, president of the Filipino Community of Seattle. That explains Beacon Hill’s affable Kusina Filipina, where fronds of greenery arching against bright goldenrod walls and candles burning near stands of books sketch the warmest of homespun scenes. Likewise the food. Eight or so steamtable entrées survey the Filipino devotion to stews: among them comforting chicken and pork adobos, less vinegary here than elsewhere; ginataang salmon, with onions and plump jalapeños bobbing in coconut milk; and bopis, chunks of pork heart and spleen, sautéed with garlic and onions to a mild succulence nowhere near as objectionable as it sounds. Top it off with Filipino coffee from the espresso bar and a bag of pillowy rolls from the bakery.