Liquor license requirements meant Sam Jo needed to serve food at his Korean-toned cocktail bar in White Center. So he embraced it—and his heritage—to build a singular bar food lineup that includes a Roy Choi–inspired “Koreadilla,” and kimchi mac and cheese balls. A basket of dakgangjeong, aka bites of sticky-sweet fried chicken, easily justifies another round of the beer-soju cocktails known as somaek. The weekend-only “koco moco” inserts house kimchi and spam fried rice into Hawaii’s champion breakfast, topped with a beef patty, runny egg, and some surprisingly great gravy.