Owner Karuna Long has Canlis problems: how to balance a beloved legacy with evolving tastes. Drinks like the Duff and Blathers, a pepper-spiked manhattan riff, made this circa-2007 bar a landmark back in Seattle’s primordial craft cocktail era. They stand the test of time, especially beside other classics rebooted in unexpected ways (a Martinez, say, with red wine reduction and bitter melon maraschino). Cambodian takeout dishes born of the 2020 shutdown live on in the food menu. All this happy coexistence makes for a chill neighborhood haunt that still surprises after all these years.