Dinner and a Show

Review: Shaken, Not Stirred

Mark Siano, aka the Soft Rock Kid, abandons ’80s music for a swankier set at El Gaucho.

By Laura Dannen April 7, 2010

The cast of Shaken, Not Stirred, with Siano (third from left) and Hardie (far left). Photo courtesy Andrew McDonald.

Having dinner at El Gaucho is a show unto itself—any restaurant that spins your salad at your table is theatrical in my book. But in the swank steakhouse’s downstairs lounge, the Pampas Room (note: not the “Pompous” Room), you get true dinner theater: filet mignon with a side of burlesque.

For three more Saturdays, local singer Mark Siano (of Soft Rock Kid fame) will host Shaken, Not Stirred, a Rat Pack–styled lounge act of singing, dancing, comedy, and pasties. Each course gets its own accompaniment, though sometimes the food’s stronger than the show. Delicate amuse-bouche— bacon-wrapped dates, crostini with slow-roasted tomatoes, olives, and mozzarella, and house-made lox on pumpernickel toast —compensated for a clunky start to opening night, when a backup dancer who seemed to have missed a few rehearsals couldn’t keep up with Siano’s “Luck Be A Lady” routine.

We’re hoping the kinks have been worked out since then, since Siano certainly has enough charm and quick wit to pull off a smoother act. He’s at his best during his signature piece—a tongue-in-cheek song lamenting a girl texting during their dinner date. And the aforementioned backup dancers inject the show with a bit of glam, especially former Freedom Dancer/Siano cohort Joanna Hardie, who showed she can upstage the Soft Rock Kid during a playful duet on “Anything You Can Do (I Can Do Better).” As for the burlesque, Miss Rhinestone and Scarlett Swift do their job, and they do it well.

The show’s pricey for what it is—$130/person for a four-course meal and a two-hour performance, while Teatro ZinZanni’s five-course meal and 3.5-hour extravaganza costs $125–$160. Then again, you’re not getting El Gaucho steak under the spiegeltent.

MENU

Amuse-bouche:
House-cured lox, shaved red onion, horseradish cream on pumpernickel toast
Crostini with slow-roasted tomato, olives, and fresh mozzarella
Bacon-wrapped dates with Parmigiano-Reggiano

Salad: scallion yogurt, Cara Cara oranges, avocado

Choice of entrée (served with braised lentils):
Filet mignon with truffle demi-glace
Grilled Alaskan salmon with bacon in sherry butter
Chicken El Gaucho with lobster medallions in a béarnaise sauce

Dessert trio: Chocolate ganache, cheesecake with fresh strawberries, whiskey bread pudding

Shaken, Not Stirred plays at the Pampas Room April 10 & 24, and May 8, at 7. Tickets are $100/each for bar seating, $130 for a regular table, and $225 for the front row and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot. For more info, visit ElGaucho.com.

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