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What Vegetable is All Over Menus Right Now?

Just a few of the intriguing foodstuffs at Madison Park Conservatory.

You know it’s late summer in Seattle when fresh corn starts showing up as more than just a side dish for pork loin. It’s everywhere right now.

A few weeks back at Oddfellows we enjoyed a plain yet satisfying toss of ricotta gnocchi, cilantro, pepper relish, and lots of fresh corn.

Later at Altura, corn showed up in the form of an amuse bouche of panna cotta, served all quivery and lush in a porcelain teacup with drops of olive oil and blue chive blossoms.

Last weekend we ordered Delancey’s wackiest special—its ricotta/mozzarella/garlic/Grana (a hard Italian cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano) “White Pie” scattered with corn and leaves of fresh basil. The flavors harmonized beautifully but a few at our table couldn’t get past the unexpected sensation of chewy corn kernels on pizza crust. No matter how great the pizza crust. (Others at the table, myself included, loved their sweet contribution.)

The next night at Madison Park Conservatory we encountered a veritable festival of corn puddings: The first as the sweet, kernel-rich foil to a sensational plateful of huckleberried quail; later as a smooth dessert, crowned with summer berries and caramel-drizzled popcorn.

 











Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.