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Which Seattle Restaurant Made Eater’s National List?

For the second year in a row, no less.

2012.12.27.seattlemet.thewhalewins.brent 161 edit yjd4st

It’s this one.

Perhaps you’ve heard of Eater, the national outfit with local outposts that follows restaurants almost as fervently as we do. Regularly they update their local lists of what they judge each city’s most essential restaurants, but last year they did it for the whole country: Picked 38 restaurants that America couldn’t live without.

One Seattle restaurant made that list—and, we found out yesterday, made this year’s update too. That restaurant is The Whale Wins.

Critic Bill Addison: “The Whale Wins takes the communal, Pacific Northwest aesthetic of chef Renee Erickson’s other restaurant, the Walrus and the Carpenter, and delves into dishes that are saucier and riskier, with a menu of punched-up zingers.” He also liked the space, which “shines in all of Seattle’s seasons, cozy enough to stand up to the misty months, airy enough to be flooded with light when the sun finally appears.” 

What do you think, Seattle? Is Erickson’s victorious leviathan Seattle’s best exemplar of a place that “shaped and defined American dining?” (For context, Portland was represented on last year’s list by Pok Pok; and on this year’s instead by the Russian wow, Kachka.) Personally, to fill that shaping and defining mandate, I would have looked to Matt Dillon’s Bar Sajor or Sitka and Spruce before The Whale Wins–which for its concept and its execution I regard as the stunningly talented Renee Erickson’s least compelling property. 

What would you have included?

 











Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.