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What Does Vespolina Have that Aragona Didn’t?

And why high-end restaurants changing up names and formats has become the hottest move in town.

Vespolina’s pork ribs over tonnato.

The short answer is: A bottle of Jack. The long answer is…a little longer.

Many will remember that Jason Stratton’s downtown Spanish restaurant, Aragona, closed its doors for a minute last September to reopen as Vespolina, an Italian pasta house similar in menu to his fanatically beloved Cascina Spinasse on Capitol Hill.

They might also remember that Stratton was very personally invested in his Catalan vision for Aragona, having dreamt of that restaurant’s concept, even menu, before Spinasse was a glimmer in his eye.

So why the switch-up? 

“I didn’t really realize moving in there how much of a presence tourists would be,” Stratton told me by phone about the restaurant located in the Benaroya Hall/Four Seasons Hotel/Seattle Art Museum district. “Looking back, I guess that was kind of silly.”

Simply put, Stratton says, his Spanish food was not accessible enough for that crowd. “It was really odd for me, especially coming off Spinasse and Artusi, to have people come in, look at the menu, then stand up and walk out. The ones who knew about Spinasse often asked when we’d be putting pasta on the menu. So I realized the value of dishes that are understandable to people. It’s been an eye-opener for sure. In terms of cocktails, I keep a bottle of Jack Daniels on the shelf, for the people who want to order a Jack and Coke.”

Far cry from Artusi, Stratton’s Italian aperitif bar, and its subtly herbal array of Amari.

But it’s emblematic of the turn toward increased accessibility that is by no means limited to Stratton. The same is true, in different ways, of Book Bindery’s transformation to Hommage on the Queen Anne side of the Ship Canal.

Read my review of both right here, in Seattle Met’s February issue.

 

 











Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.