Image: Jess Thomson
AT STEELHEAD DINER, Louisiana-raised chef Kevin Davis pays tribute to Pacific Northwest ingredients by adding what he knows best: the taste of New Orleans. He starts with meaty, plump Totten Inlet Virginica oysters, which he fries in a spicy batter and then piles on a soft bun. If you’re shuck-shy, opt for Taylor Shellfish’s shell-free oysters, on sale at University District and Ballard farmers markets (seattlefarmersmarkets.org).
Makes: 4 big sandwiches
Total Time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
4 long, soft sandwich buns
1 cup mayonnaise
Hot sauce
Shredded iceberg lettuce
Sliced tomato
Sliced dill pickle
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 tsp kosher salt
2 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp white pepper
8 ounces clarified butter or ghee
24 Totten Inlet Virginica oysters, shucked
2 cups buttermilk
Directions:
Slice buns in half lengthwise. Mix mayonnaise with hot sauce to taste, and spread on the buns. Pile with lettuce, tomato, and pickles, and set aside.
Whisk together flour, salt, and both types of pepper in a bowl. In a large, heavy-gauge saute pan, warm half the clarified butter over medium-high heat. Place the oysters in a bowl with the buttermilk, stir to coat, then transfer half the oysters to the flour mixture, turning each to coat well.
When the butter is hot, shake oysters to remove excess flour and carefully place in pan (oysters shouldn’t touch). Cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Flip oysters and continue cooking until golden brown on second side, about another 3 minutes. Transfer oysters to a plate lined with paper towels. Pour off the butter and wipe the pan clean with a paper towel. Add the remaining butter to the pan, then flour and fry the remaining 12.
Pile 6 oysters into each sandwich while they are hot, season with salt, pepper, and additional hot sauce, and serve immediately.
Tips & Tricks
Traditional po’boy bread can be hard to come by. Find something soft and light, such as Panzanella’s Frusta bread, that won’t overwhelm the oysters.
In keeping with Southern custom, chef Davis uses Crystal hot sauce, which has more vinegar than spice.
For the ultimate fried-crunch to hot-oyster ratio, choose preshucked oysters labeled
“extra small.”
Illustrations by Melissa Robinson
Published in the Tales of Love & Lust in Seattle issue of Seattle Met.
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