The lived-in ease of this cozy brick-walled boite not only makes Belltown feel like a neighborhood, it leaves you quite unprepared for the exacting food. Chef Ba -Culbert’s savory appetizer tarts are rich with delectables like bacon and fine Gruyere, and meltingly crusted; her celeriac soup a fathomless marvel topped with smoky paprika and caramelized pear. Dinners are comforting affairs—perhaps a moist, charry pork chop with polenta cake and greens and grilled fig—and lunches casual and precise. Everything, including the long, luscious list of housemade desserts, tastes more careful and authentic than it ought to at prices this low. And weekend brunch, with its rotating lineup of Dutch babies, is legendary.