One of Ethan Stowell’s OG restaurants, with its wood-wrapped interior atop Queen Anne, illustrates how the restaurateur became a household name in his hometown: clever pastas, Italian-meets-Northwest crudos, and an attentive staff that’s quick to refresh the crostini supply that comes with plush chicken liver mousse. In a restaurant this small, hospitality is a job for both front and back of house, and chef Nicole Matson’s love of vegan and pescatarian dining has proved a surprisingly inspired fit for a restaurant that finds beauty in simple, often vegetal ingredients.