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This Is What Washington’s Tiniest Ferry Looks Like

Who’s says there’s no such thing as a free ride?

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The M/V Sanpoil. Isn’t it cute?

Photo courtesy WSDOT

The M/V Puyallup, of the biggest class of Washington state’s ferries, can haul 2,499 people per trip to Bainbridge Island. The 116-foot M/V Sanpoil, aka the Keller Ferry, sometimes carries as few as three across the Columbia—two crew and a passenger. 

The M/V Sanpoil has no interior for anyone but operator John Miller. Now his bridge is a few feet wide and suspended over a car deck smaller than a Capitol Hill parking lot. There’s no schedule beyond the first and last run of the day; the captain glances across the one-and-a-quarter-mile crossing to see if anyone wants to board from the other side, and makes the nine minute journey when a passenger shows up.

But what the Keller Ferry lacks in traffic it makes up for in scenery; here basalt walls climb from the Columbia River and scrubby brush dots the tan hills behind them. There’s no town on either side for miles; just a highway that stops dead at the water’s edge. One side of the ferry is in the Colville Indian Reservation, the other in Lincoln County; a similar boat crosses the Columbia 35 miles north at Gifford. The Keller was the very first ferry operated by the state, and the relatively fancy Sanpoil only recently replaced a boat that had been doing the run since 1949. 

The Keller Ferry is a rare freebie from WSDOT (fares would be too complicated), a middle-of-nowhere utility in a strikingly beautiful spot. For all the ferry’s charm, says Miller, it’s so easy that it can unsettle visitors. “Sometimes people will get mad about getting a free ride.”

Published in the Columbia River issue of Seattle Met.











Allison Williams
Allison Williams
Since joining Seattle Met in 2011, Allison Williams has overseen the magazine’s travel and outdoor coverage, including deep dives into Olympic National Park, the Columbia River, and a Burger King drive-thru in Canada. She edits the travel-focused blog Tripster and contributes service, news, interview, and narrative pieces to the magazine, including long-form features about mountain mysteries and puppies in prison. She’s earned awards from the Society of Professional Journalists and been nominated for a City and Regional Magazine award.  Allison was raised here in Olympia and studied writing at Duke University, Oxford University, Columbia Journalism School, and University of Alaska. She began her career in New York City in the newsrooms of Metro newspaper and Time Out New York, then hightailed it back to her native habitat so she could write guidebooks and climb mountains.