LATEST

Visiting the South Side of Mount St. Helens: On Top of Old Smokey

Take a walk on the adventure side of the volcano. Keen athletes can spelunk underground, ski gentle slopes, or climb to the crater rim.

The view into the crater from the summit.

► Crash at the funky Lone Fir Resort in the town of Cougar to get a taste of what St. Helens was like before the blast—locally owned RV spots and accommodations with more personality than luxuries. Motel rooms and cabins have wood-panel walls and thick wood-branch furniture, and guests gather at the outdoor games, hammocks, and pool. 

Decending into the Ape Caves.

► Don’t expect primates at the Ape Cave, a 2,000-year-old lava tube; it was named for the Boy Scout troop that first explored it, and legend has it their nickname referenced Bigfoot. In summer rangers rent out lanterns, but backup headlamps are recommended year-round. The mile-long cave exploration is an ideal first trip underground, since it’s one long, thin room; no way to get lost.

► Hike Lava Canyon for an up-close look at how the eruption lahars cut through the land like a knife through butter. The 125-foot suspension bridge—undergoing repairs but expected to reopen—offers the best vantage point for the deep canyon and lava formations; leaving the trail on these steep cliffs can be deadly. The first section is paved and ADA accessible.

Crossing the suspension bridge at Lava Canyon.

► Score a permit ($22) to climb Mount St. Helens between April and October, and come prepared. It’s a 10-mile round-trip trek gaining 4,500 to 5,500 feet, depending on the starting point; that can mean more than a mile straight up. In shoulder season the snow requires traction and winter hike know-how. In summer, the ashy, rocky trail demands lots of water and good footwear. The reward comes at the jagged rim with a top-down view into the crater. Wary climbers can join a snow, summer, ski, or geologist-guided trip through Mount St. Helens Institute ($250). 

► Return through Cougar for a big meal at Bigfoot’s Lodge at the Lone Fir. Though a hearty bacon melt or Sasquatch stew are the best refueling options after a chilly winter day, locals recommend the pizza in summer. Cougar Bar and Grill across the street does the job for a no-frills beer.

The statewide Covid-19 response has affected planned Mount St. Helens anniversary events, temporarily closed businesses, and prohibited access to some roads, trailheads, visitor centers, and more. Be sure to check online or by phone for the latest updates before making plans. 











Allison Williams
Allison Williams
Since joining Seattle Met in 2011, Allison Williams has overseen the magazine’s travel and outdoor coverage, including deep dives into Olympic National Park, the Columbia River, and a Burger King drive-thru in Canada. She edits the travel-focused blog Tripster and contributes service, news, interview, and narrative pieces to the magazine, including long-form features about mountain mysteries and puppies in prison. She’s earned awards from the Society of Professional Journalists and been nominated for a City and Regional Magazine award.  Allison was raised here in Olympia and studied writing at Duke University, Oxford University, Columbia Journalism School, and University of Alaska. She began her career in New York City in the newsrooms of Metro newspaper and Time Out New York, then hightailed it back to her native habitat so she could write guidebooks and climb mountains.