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Welcome to the Culinary Epicenter of Seattle

And what it’s like to open a restaurant there. Restaurant Marron’s Eric Sakai dishes.

Photo via Restaurant Marron’s Facebook page.

“No pressure, right?” chuckles Eric Sakai, who opened Restaurant Marron in the old Olivar space in North Capitol Hill’s Loveless Building this summer. When he opened there, he was well aware that he was doing so around the corner from Nathan Lockwood’s Altura and across Broadway from Jerry Traunfeld’s Poppy—two of the finest culinary destinations in town, run by chefs who can legitimately be called visionaries.

To be sure, Sakai’s own resume is no slouch.  Trained at the CIA in Hyde Park, Sakai went on to cooking positions at the late Rubicon and Michelin-starred Acquerello in San Francisco, then with the Four Seasons folks. He opened Marron with his wife Zarina to fulfill a dream, in a town chosen for its youthful population and culinary sophistication.

It’s just that he picked a part of town known for its, well…culinary perfection.

“Ultimately I think it’s only a benefit for an area to have more people doing great things,” he reflects. “I think it’s better for everyone. It makes us try to be better every day. It pushes us. To be honest, [Zarina and I] count our blessings that we’re able to be in this community, with two very, very, very great chefs around the corner. I worked with Nate before, at Acquerello. I was a cook but he was chef de cuisine. And he is an excellent, excellent chef.”

Read my review of Restaurant Marron in Seattle Met’s October issue.

 

 

 











Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.