
If he’s drinking alone, Knee High Stocking Co. bartender Gregg Holcomb likes a heavy bourbon drink. If he’s with other people, a Hemingway daiquiri is "deep and savory and flavorful but I don’t have to think about it a lot." Photo: Lucas Anderson

If he’s drinking alone, Knee High Stocking Co. bartender Gregg Holcomb likes a heavy bourbon drink. If he’s with other people, a Hemingway daiquiri is "deep and savory and flavorful but I don’t have to think about it a lot." Photo: Lucas Anderson

The working title for this drink is God’s Cocktail; Holcomb often makes this when a patron tells him, "surprise me." Photo: Lucas Anderson

The working title for this drink is God’s Cocktail; Holcomb often makes this when a patron tells him, "surprise me." Photo: Lucas Anderson

The drink, technically a cross between an Angostura sour and an old-timey Alabazam, is made with Âľ ounce of Angostura bitters, cognac, Cointreau, lemon, sugar, and egg white. Photo: Lucas Anderson

The drink, technically a cross between an Angostura sour and an old-timey Alabazam, is made with Âľ ounce of Angostura bitters, cognac, Cointreau, lemon, sugar, and egg white. Photo: Lucas Anderson

Holcomb says he’s not a shot-and-a-beer guy. "Every bartender says that’s what they order, but I hate beer." Photo: Lucas Anderson

Holcomb says he’s not a shot-and-a-beer guy. "Every bartender says that’s what they order, but I hate beer." Photo: Lucas Anderson

When Holcomb goes out with his wife, he forces himself to sit with his back to the middle of the room so he doesn’t get distracted by observing the nuances of service. Photo: Lucas Anderson

When Holcomb goes out with his wife, he forces himself to sit with his back to the middle of the room so he doesn’t get distracted by observing the nuances of service. Photo: Lucas Anderson

Holcomb uses an immersion blender to froth things up, then gives the drink a good shake. Photo: Lucas Anderson

Holcomb uses an immersion blender to froth things up, then gives the drink a good shake. Photo: Lucas Anderson

"I’m a big fan of Angostura bitters," says Holcomb. "When you get enough in there, the cherry and root notes come out, so it’s got this deep, rich rooty, berry, flavor." Photo: Lucas Anderson

"I’m a big fan of Angostura bitters," says Holcomb. "When you get enough in there, the cherry and root notes come out, so it’s got this deep, rich rooty, berry, flavor." Photo: Lucas Anderson
If you can master Knee High Stocking Co.’s text message-only reservation system and locate the nondescript door on Olive Way, the nattily attired Gregg Holcomb will probably be making your drink. And it will probably be complex and very good. While speakeasy-style bars have proliferated to the point of…
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