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Seafood Snacks

Barnacle

Barnacle
4743 Ballard Ave NW
Ballard
206-706-3379
thebarnaclebar.com
$$

At Boat Street Cafe, the Walrus and the Carpenter, and the Whale Wins, Renee Erickson has showcased two distinct gifts: sourcing perfect seafood, and spinning a magical sense of place. Both are in full bloom at Barnacle, her skinny 20-seater with the copper counter, the Euro bar, and the chalkboard menu—heavy on the fishies. The place was conceived as the antipasti anteroom to Ballard’s ever-packed Walrus—and it takes great care with tipples and nibbles. Slices of octopus terrine come puddled in rich Ligurian olive oil with squeezes of lemon. Italian bread arrives with escabeche mussels and cilantro sauce. Seven or eight of these “snacks” happen nightly, for pairing with the Italian drinkables that the folksy-friendly staff will readily and unpretentiously (and intelligently) recommend. As for that patented Erickson atmo? The room is wrapped entirely in white and indigo Moroccan tiles. Uh huh.

 

This article originally appeared in the December 2013 issue of Seattle Met.

Published in the 100 Things You Must Do This Winter issue of Seattle Met.











Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.