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Bucatini Amatriciana at Rione XIII

Dish #10 is one fine, feisty pasta.

Kathryn Robinson
Author: Kathryn Robinson
Less than 1 min.read

Bucatini Amatriciana at Rione XIII

The menu at Ethan Stowell’s new Capitol Hill homage to Roman food, Rione XIII, holds some knockouts—off a late-summer menu I was impressed by the housemade mozzarella with a peach mostarda, and a plate-filler of a veal chop: faultlessly tender, wrapped in prosciutto, and served on a bed of juicy escarole.

I’ve always been fonder of Stowell’s meats than his pastas, so it surprised me to find that my personal winner off his menu was a sturdy bucatini swathed in a bold amatriciana. Built from pork shoulder and someone’s unstinting hand with the chiles, this sauce (done here with tomatoes too) was at once brave and crowd-pleasing—a rare combo—and served in generous portion for $14.  




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Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.