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Raw Halibut Is All Over Menus Now

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Upper Bar Ferdinand.

Image: Facebook

Fresh local halibut predictably swims onto menus around this time every year—but this season the fish has made a particular splash on the 1400 block of 11th Avenue.

Recent visits to both Bar Ferdinand—the new Upper Bar Ferdinand, to be precise, in Chophouse Row—and Bar Melusine across the street revealed versions of the same dish: uncooked halibut, sliced and tiled and served each to singular effect.

At Melusine, it was halibut crudo, served within a Lily Pulitzer colorscape of spring green (cucumbers) and hot pink (rhubarb), along with onions and olive oil.

At Ferdinand, the line-caught halibut was cured with shiso, dolloped with wild plum and shishito pepper, then arrayed on velvet ribbons of kelp. With it came a bowl of dashi broth for plunging. Sensuous eating, to be sure.

And, both, subtle in their charms—as halibut is going to be. (Too subtle, it could be argued, at Ferdinand, where the plum and the pepper didn’t pack as much flavor as needed.)

Still, these two “bars”—which offer considerably more than just halibut plates and location in common—provide as fine a way to enjoy a Seattle June evening as this Seattleite can imagine.











Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.