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No-Nonsense Service at Barolo

I ate a pretty good hunk of branzino at Barolo yesterday. But it wasn’t the best part of my visit.

Nor was it the sexy candle wax sculptures dripping off the candelabras. Or the hot Italian waiters in their hot Italian jeans. Or the rigatoni Bolognese, or the Tuscan bean puree drizzled with tomato oil (though that was pretty winsome), or the fact that I got to eat a three-course lunch for $15. (Remember folks: Just three more days left in Dine Around Seattle. Three more days!)

No, the best part of my visit to Barolo was Rose, my waiter. She was my favorite kind of waiter: frank, decisive, efficient. No smushy small-talk (what female solo diners so often must endure); no insipid “Everything’s good!” when asked what was outstanding.

“What’s outstanding is the branzino and the gnocchi,” she replied, with just the right touch of declarative swagger. She knew without having to ask the kitchen that the stuff swimming around in my olive oil was indeed caponata. She told me I was ordering too much for one person to eat (occupational hazard), and I appreciated her candor. She brought my doggy bags swiftly and without undue attention to herself.

She was, in short, a pro. And this is my thank you.











Kathryn Robinson
Kathryn Robinson
Senior Writer Seattle native Kathryn Robinson, award-winning restaurant critic and senior writer at Seattle Met, has been anonymously reviewing restaurants for over 30 years—first as editor of the Best Places guidebook series, then as staff critic at Seattle Weekly and contributing critic at The Seattle Times and Seattle magazine.  Midcareer she spent a year-long sabbatical studying comparative religion as a Knight Fellow at Stanford University where she had been an undergrad 10 years earlier, gaining a knowledge base she now calls upon for her monthly “Back Fence” column on our collective urban existence and the meaning it holds for our personal lives. In her off hours she is a partner and a parent—which means she has no off hours.