How Kamonegi Chef Mutsuko Soma Hacks Ramen

One visit to Mutsuko Soma’s Wallingford soba restaurant, Kamonegi (or her neighboring sake bar, Hannyatou) makes it clear—this chef is intensely creative. Outside of work, the trained soba maker performs an ongoing culinary hackathon on social media. You can find her on TikTok, flambeing day-old doughnuts and batching onigiri using muffin tins. In 2020, she posted 50 Instagram recipes that use humble Top Ramen noodles—chilaquiles, paella, chips and dip, even a dried-noodle version of a rice krispie treat. (The next year, she won a contest Cup Noodles sponsored for its 50th anniversary, turning the instant noodles into okonomiyaki.)

Her renegade ramen aptitude goes beyond instant noodles to ramen itself. Traditional tonkotsu broth might simmer for 24, even 48 hours. Soma’s quickie version relies on the bones from a roast chicken (like the rotisserie birds at Costco). “I even make this for day after Thanksgiving from a turkey bone,” she says. A common household ingredient helps turn regular boxed pasta into a decent proxy for chewy alkaline ramen noodles.

In Japanese culture, food-and-drink-centered gatherings usually end with a portion of noodles, says Soma. “When I host yakitori parties [a.k.a. grilled chicken on skewers], I save the bones and serve ramen like this.” Her social media is full of gonzo challenges (like using dumpling skins to make a lasagna), but few feats compare with turning a pile of bones and box of dried pasta into enough warm, hearty soup to feed four people.

Make Ahead

Soma’s Favorite Ramen Topping

Nail the all-important marinated egg: add four cold eggs to boiling water; let them cook for seven minutes. Next, transfer to an ice bath. Let the eggs sit for a few minutes. Then, peel the eggs. Add them to a ziplock bag with 3 tbsp of sugar, 3 tbsp soy sauce, and 3 tbsp water. Let sit overnight in the fridge.

Ingredients

Serves 4

For the Stock
(or just use a one-quart container of store-bought chicken broth)

• Carcass of a rotisserie chicken
• Konbu and dried shiitakes, optional
• Ginger
• Garlic
• Veggie scraps (any leftover bits of onions, carrots, or cabbage leaves you might have handy)

Steps

• If you have konbu and dried shiitakes, soak them for an hour. If not, move straight the next step.
• Place the chicken carcass in about 2 liters of water. Add ginger, smashed garlic, and your veggie scraps. If you have any drippings from the chicken, be sure to add those, too.
• Bring to a boil. Let it simmer around 45 minutes to one hour. You’ll need about 1.2 liters of broth. If you reduce it too much, just add water. If you’re using store-bought stock, a 32-ounce (1 quart, close to a liter) container is just the right amount for four people.
• When your broth is nearly ready, fill a separate pot with two liters of water and bring to a boil. Add 2 tbsp salt and 2 tbsp baking soda.
• Add pasta to the boiling water. Let it cook one minute longer than the instructions suggest; this plus the baking soda gives the noodles a ramen-like texture and aroma.
  

  

• Strain your broth and portion it into bowls. You want roughly 1¼ cups (300 milliliters) of broth for each serving.
• Add seasoning to each bowl: 2 tsp soy sauce, 2 tsp sesame oil, ½ tsp dashi powder, and a pinch of black pepper.
• Place a portion of noodles in each broth bowl, then let everyone add their favorite toppings.

Or…Make a Ramen Bar

Sometimes it’s more fun for everyone to build their own bowls. Soma likes to set out toppings and a platter of cooked noodles, preportioned into small bundles (about 1 cup of noodles each) so they don’t stick together.

Ramen Topping Ideas

• Corn
• Green onion, sliced
• Chicken, shredded
• Leftover grilled meat
• Ham
• Sausage
• Seaweed
• Chile crisp
• Sesame seeds
• Frozen spinach
• Fish cakes
• Leftover dumplings 

Published in the Best Restaurants 2023 issue of Seattle Met.