Up there with Seattle’s timeless treasures—perpetually crowed Pike Place Market, Mount Rainier on a clear day—stands the inimitable Virginia Inn, which for over a century has held down the corner of First and Virginia on the sheer, soul-satisfying strength of consistently great food and terrific beer—and marbled bistro tables with woven chairs that evoke trips to Paris. The owners expanded the bar into the neighboring space, upgrading from a galley to a full kitchen and extending the classy brick-walled, wood-boothed, lavishly windowed space into an area twice its original size, but no less intimate. And now that kitchen is turning out food worth eating: flawlessly done duck leg confit, moules-frites, and other Frenchified items.