Inside Seattle’s most historic dining room, decorated with murals of a Pushkin fairy tale three and six course dinners proceed along a familiar trifecta: French technique, Northwest sourcing, Asian inflections. The changing menu may include triumphs (heirloom eggplant two ways with baby leeks in foie gras vinaigrette), but productions don’t always rise above the sum of the parts—something you expect at these prices. Service is careful; at times, overly so.