Just a wide spot between walls in Wallingford’s Tangletown commercial district, Mkt. delivers dinners straight out of the Ethan Stowell playbook—meaty grilled rabbit and fried quail with rosemary, vegetal potato-squash gnocchi with crisped shallots and thyme—in an intimate space that glows golden from the sidewalk. In this crowded room, comfort and ease take second place to din and vitality, and the kitchen’s not always spot on with its conceptions. But cocktails are unassailable, and a certain port-glazed fig tart with pistachio gelato is the stuff of dreams.