Grass-fed meat, house-made pickles—there’s much to admire in the faux-lowbrow burger joints semi-recently inducted into the pantheon of Renee Erickson restaurants. But OMG these fries: crinkle cut, genuine flavor, perfect crunch. And, man, those Parfait Ice Cream milkshakes. There’s the OG location in Denny Regrade, but two newer walk-up windows—one in Chinatown–International District, another downtown on Third Ave—promise the same full menu and a swift lunch trip.