In Pike/Pine’s lofty, fir-floored Piston and Ring Building, Makini Howell cooks up feisty-flavored plant-based renditions of classic comfort foods and elegant New American staples: spicy Cajun Mac ’n’ Yease, a jerk tofu “burger,” Cajun-fried seitan (wheat gluten) “steak” with wild-mushroom gravy. Vegans and omnivores alike can relish Howell’s bold flavors and plate-filling portions of decidedly nonvegetal textures, but she also
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