It can be hard to suss an excellent brewery out of the masses of good ones, especially if, like Seapine, that brewery doesn’t have some major calling card or gimmick. Here there’s a gentle German slant—gose, kolsch, hefeweizen—but even that’s hardly noticeable. What is noticeable is consistently intelligent, elegant brewing: Sea Witch Stout is a standby for its style. The tasting room itself is a nice break from more refined spaces in the neighborhood. Here you sit at picnic tables in an unadorned garage.
