Hitchcock’s Brendan McGill runs this all-day cafe in the art deco Exchange Building, a culinary bright spot on a barren stretch of First Avenue downtown. Mornings mean espresso, pastries, and biscuits—great ones made with lard from his own Mangalitsa hogs. Lunchtime sandwiches include favorites from Hitchcock Deli; come afternoon, people who work in nearby offices linger in clean-lined booths with wine and charcuterie from those same hogs. The kitchen flexes to its full reach at happy hour and into the evening with smart tartines and French-leaning plates like pate de campagne or roast chicken. (Around 3pm things shift from counter service to table service.)