Image: Jane Sherman

There’s probably no lunch I eat more frequently than canned fish. Yet a while back, tuna fell out of my rotation. So many cans disappointed: I’d try to drain the already pulverized meat and instead get a cat food ooze that even ample mayo couldn’t save.

St. Jude Tuna, though, emerges from the can as a single steak, which, especially glossed with oil, actually verges on comely (never tinned fish’s allure). The family-owned, local fishing company has nabbed back-to-back Good Food Awards for its troll-caught albacore: Mediterranean (packed in Spanish olive oil) won last year, the jalapeño version this year. The cans, available at certain farmers markets and grocers like DeLaurenti and QFC, run $7 to $15 for 6.5 ounces. St. Jude’s fares fine as tuna salad, but the fish is both fattier and meatier than most canned albacore, so it’s better served flaked in a green salad or, especially with the gently spicy jalapeño flavor, over avocado toast—where it managed, for a few of my lunches, to displace sardines. tunatuna.com

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