make a plan. Change everything. Do it all again. On some level, every restaurant in the city is new this year, as chefs and owners grow dizzy from all the pivots. But the only thing more wild than running a restaurant during a pandemic is opening a brand-new one. This year, chefs embraced burgers, fine dining restaurants recast themselves as bars, and an actual bar became a paean to remarkable Cambodian food. No one would wish 2020 on any industry (except maybe outdoor heater manufacturers) but the unremitting grit required to open a new restaurant amid all this also prompted some truly excellent food.