Rest assured, the PhinneyWood storefront that was once home to Martino's is in good hands: Mark Schroder, longtime chef de cuisine at Trove, is opening his own place here at 7410 Greenwood Ave N. It's called Opus Co., and Schroder will carry on the space's carnivorous legacy. He's focusing on whole animal–driven menus; anything that isn't raw, pickled, or fermented will spend time in the company of Opus's wood-fired grill. The restaurant has no gas range.
Food will be ultra-seasonal, says Schroder, "I'm going to get myself some fire and give myself whatever’s available and see what I can make of it." Look for lots of pork and lamb (from Enumclaw's Wilderness Farms) and chicken. Schroder's upbringing on a farm in central Illinois means plenty of "American Midwestern meat and potato–type stuff," he says, but also some Asian influence. That's no surprise considering his years working as chef de cuisine at Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi's third restaurant, Trove. Before that, he was sous chef at Revel, where duties included running the restaurant's Grill Shack, a summertime tradition. Thus he's no stranger to, say, grilling a whole pig or goat and turning it into a bevy of fantastic dishes.
If you're familiar with the space, I don't have to tell you that Opus will be a small restaurant, about 20 seats. All the better, says Schroder, to make this a proper neighborhood restaurant. He envisions the four stools at the counter functioning almost like an izakaya, where diners tell the cooks what they feel like eating and dishes appear accordingly.