After Goldilocks moments in spaces too small (the sidewalk takeout down the street), then too big (the Pioneer Square basement), the beloved Little Uncle has found its just-right. Mind you, the packed, modern space has limited seating, but wraparound windows help, and aromas from the open kitchen—tended by careful owners Wiley Frank and Poncharee Kounpungchart—evoke its heady citizen-of-the-world status.
A $13-ish menu of noodle bowls, starring tamarind phad thai (add the side packets of chilies and nuts and sugar if you want intrigue) and exquisite khao soi gai (chicken curry over egg noodles) is served 11am to 9pm, with an added card of shareables after 5pm. Execution remains the bugaboo; rockfish fritters taste glorious, scattered with crisp-fried basil leaves in cucumber vinegar, but soggy. Hard to care when so much else is just right.