Apparently Broadway needed a shot of old-time religion, because it has taken to this Southern church–themed bar with evangelical zeal. Partly that’s because of the food: straight-up Southern fare—shrimp and grits, Carolina pulled-pork sliders, buttermilk beignets—that’s impossible not to crave, even if it can err on the side of blandness. (The fried chicken and waffles featured terrific bourbon maple syrup, but the chicken strips—crisp and moist to be sure—held no flavor.) The cocktails, for their part, runneth over with flavor—including hickory-smoked cherry in the bourbon-and-Benedictine concoction known as the Witness Cocktail and a tequila, lime-ginger beer-cassis blend, El Diablo, one can only call inspired. Happy hour here, with its $6 cocktails amid twinkling votives and 100-year-old church pews, turns late afternoon into a religious experience.

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