It's done. As of lunchtime today, Aragona is gone and in its place is Vespolina, where chef Jason Stratton returns to the Italian fare that built him one hell of a following in the first place. As expected, handmade pastas take front stage, even more than at Spinasse. Artusi fixture Adam Fortuna is behind the bar during lunch (11:30 to 3), while chef de cuisine Carrie Mashaney remains a force in the kitchen. The space remains the same, but the slideshow of glorious pasta dishes should prove how much things have changed on the menu.