Guide to the San Juans
Orcas Island: What to Do and Where to Eat
The biggest San Juan island has an artsy heart, a mountain that dominates half its clam-shaped mass, and views that can't be beat. Swim in a millionaire's basement pool and shuck your own clams.
Editor’s Note: Originally published in August 2014, this article was updated in May 2017 for accuracy and relevance.
Mount Constitution, the island's highest peak.
Image: Kilii Fish
Where to Eat
Buck Bay Shellfish Farm
From Sea: Three generations have farmed the tidal flats of Buck Bay, where they harvest Manila and littleneck clams and Pacific oysters before purging the shellfish of sand for three days. Guests can immediately consume the slippery suckers or fresh crab at outdoor picnic tables, but know that the “U-Pluck Chickens” sign is just a joke. buckbayshellfishfarm.com
Doe Bay Cafe
From Land: The hippie ethos of remote Doe Bay Resort—naked hot tubs, 24-hour yoga studio—belies the culinary finesse of the cafe: food like plump gnocchi served with foraged ramp green cream or a Pacific Northwest version of pho made with oysters. Views are of the rocky inlet that separates the hotel’s cabins from its campsites. doebay.com/cafe-garden/doe-bay-cafe/
Cocktails at The Barnacle.
Image: Kilii Fish
The Barnacle
To Drink: The tiny one-room bar in Eastsound could be a barnacle on the larger restaurant next door, the Kitchen. Cocktails are made with housemade juices, bitters, shrubs, and infusions, plus beers from Orcas’s Island Hoppin’ Brewery. 360-468-4740
Roses Bakery and Cafe
To go: The sit-down service at Eastsound’s most popular cafe works for the leisurely, but those en route to the ferry are best served by the adjacent store that sells local goat cheese, sticky cinnamon swirls, and T-shirts celebrating artisanal pig products with the slogan “Praise the Lard.” rosesbakerycafe.com
What to Do
The Swimming Pool at Rosario Resort
There’s a Daddy Warbucks flair to swimming in a millionaire’s private basement pool, especially the one in the mansion built by shipbuilder and nineteenth-century Seattle mayor Robert Moran. The arts-and-crafts-style estate is now a hotel, and day passes for the three pools at Rosario run only $25—best paired with free near-daily history lectures and pipe organ concerts in summer, or with a classic cocktail in any season. rosarioresort.com
Image: Kilii Fish
Mount Constitution
The hike to the stone observation tower at the island’s highest peak is four steep miles, but the windy drive is a scenic five. The surrounding Moran State Park takes up much of the fortune-cookie-shaped island’s east side. parks.state.wa.us/547/moran
Coffelt Farm
The metal-sided farm stand on this Crow Valley property sells grass-fed lamb and beef, produce, and wool socks and hats made from the sheep flock. coffeltfarm.org
Outlook Inn
The Eastsound hotel was once owned by a mystic, which didn’t endear it to the Episcopal Church across the street. Now it’s better known for the locally sourced fare at New Leaf Cafe and view of tiny Indian Island, reachable by foot at low tide. outlookinn.com
Crescent Beach Kayak
The outfit is the island’s first to offer boats with window bottoms for sea life viewing, but any boat will do; kayaking is the islands’ signature sport. crescentbeachkayaks.com
Image: Jason Gunther
