Blueacre Seafood chef Kevin Davis.

Keeping true to those Christian roots? On this Good Friday, a handful of meatless entrées from which to choose.

The restaurant is almost as fresh as the fish. At Kevin Davis’s just-opened Blueacre Seafood, the catch of the day is a first-of-the-season Columbia River king salmon, a fatty fish filleted with English pea pan stew and drizzled with truffle oil. The collars are marinated in Kasu paste and served with green papaya salad in Wasabi ginger dipping sauce; $29.95. For a side, there’s California scallops ceviche with lime, chili, smoked poblanos, and corn for $10.95, or for starters salt-and-pepper blue crabs from Louisiana sautéed with shallot soy sauce, black pepper, and Japanese rice wine, $12.95.

At Beach Café at Carillon Point, start with the crab and artichoke dip, piled high with cheese, garlic, and peppers, or the prawn sticks, made for dunkin’ in a pineapple salsa and citrus aioli; each appetizer is $10. A pan-seared mahi mahi dish with wilted spinach sauce is $20 and pairs well with a Simi Sauvignon Blanc, $8 a glass.

At Chez Shea take your pick from $11 escargot with garlic, shallots, parsley butter, and baguette; pan-seared prawns with sherry and butter, toasted almonds, garlic, and shallots, $11.50; or a pickled beet salad with Tarragon vinaigrette, $10.50.

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