Come and get ’em, cowboys: Chicken and dumplings at 5 Spot.

Gourmet takes on comfort food classics, or a more elegant entree? It’s your choice at these three restaurants.

The 5 Spot, that tried-and-true slice of Americana atop Queen Anne, is preparing chicken and dumplings, a thick, rich heap dressed up with vegetables and biscuit-style crumbs. A small festival salad of chiffon romaine and pickled beets and onions, glazed pecan clusters, and bleu cheese crumbles, plus house-made cheese straws, come on the side. $12.50.

At Frank’s Oyster House and Champagne Parlor in Ravenna, go with the grilled whole branzino, fingerling potatoes, and fennel-herb salad with Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette, $28. There’s also a vegetarian option: wild mushroom pot pie with king, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms, $13.

At Taste, start with the crepinettes: Stokesberry duck rubbed with a Chinese five spice and topped with frisee, watercress, and Concord Grape Jam, $11. Next course, the duck confit: fresh Stokesberry duck with poblano chile puree, tart cherry demi, fresh herb gnocchi, and fried fennel, $21. If you’re in a rush to catch that show at Benaroya, try the 3 for $30, a three-course extravaganza served in under an hour flat.

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