We devised an experiment to put Seattle’s top sugar spinners to the test: ask four of our best pastry chefs to invent a dessert using four local ingredients. The resulting confections rocked our sweet world. The Basics: a regional cheese, a Northwest wine, a Seattle coffee, a Washington berry.

Poppy is represented on page 1, Taste on page 2, Honoré Artisan Bakery on page 3, and Canlis on page 4.

 

Blue Cheese Ice Cream with Streusel and Compote
Dana Cree, Poppy
Ingredients:Rogue Creamery Rogue River Blue cheese, Barnard Griffin 2007 Syrah Port, Victrola Coffee’s Colombia Huila Monserrate Excelso, wild blackberries from Foraged and Found Edibles

Acclaimed avant-garde confectioner Dana Cree is a master at fusing sweet and savory. For this dish she folded a quiet but assertive measure of blue cheese into a dollop of ice cream, then set a scoop atop a hazelnut streusel infused with coffee aromas and spread over a wild blackberry and port coulis.

{page break}

Chocolate Espresso Ravioli with Cranberry Sorbet
Lucy Damkoehler, Taste
Ingredients:Beecher’s Handmade Cheese Blank Slate Honey cheese, Townshend Cellars Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Torrefazione Italia espresso, Ocean Spray Washington-grown cranberries

To create this outside-the-box dessert experience, Taste’s new pastry chef Lucy Damkoehler rolled Blank Slate honey cheese and just a hint of chopped rosemary into chocolate-espresso ravioli, then subjected them to a quick boil. She then pulled them through a gewürztraminer-cream reduction sauce, and added a canal of fresh cranberry sorbet. The subtle rosemary lingered through every bite.

 

 

{page break}


Gâteau St. Honoré
Franz Gilbertson, Honoré Artisan Bakery
Ingredients:Beecher’s Handmade Cheese Blank Slate Honey cheese, Mt. Baker Vineyards 2004 Late Harvest Viognier, Lighthouse Roasters espresso, 
Remlinger Farms raspberries

Franz Gilbertson topped his cake—a play on a classic French pastry—with a pillowy layer of Blank Slate cheese woven into Chantilly cream. Below that was a raspberry compote, made from berries macerated with viognier, sugar, vanilla bean, black pepper, and orange zest. At the edge, cream and fruit give way to cream puffs flavored with coffee and stuffed with more Chantilly cream.

 

 

{page break}


Chocolate Raspberry Financier
Neil Robertson, Canlis
Ingredients:Canlis’s homemade triple-crème mascarpone cheese, Barnard Griffin 2007 Syrah Port, Starbucks Casi Cielo dark roast espresso, Full Circle Farm organic raspberries

In a former life, Neil Robertson was a designer, which helps explain this bit of edible architecture. A slender tea cake was finished with a streak of sweet port reduction, its top piped with milk-chocolate mousse and espresso. These held in place a tuile of chocolate that served as the perch for mascarpone sorbet