A decidedly techno feel dominates within the gunmetal, grommet-bolted walls and towering ceiling of this shaft of a Belltown gastropub—and there’s a little Wild West thrown in (check the John Wayne movies on the bar TV) for…well, for aesthetic confusion, truth be told. But there’s nothing confusing about Spur’s function for Belltown revelers: It opened as the most urbane watering hole in that well-watered district, offering cocktails crafted with artisanal care (employing boutique liquors, topped with foams, even flamed for effect) and noshes that land somewhere between studiously impressive and just plain yummy. When your terrific waiter comes over and pours little wicked fried hominy nuggets into a dish for you to nibble on, you will have your first clue. Later, when she brings out the butterfish over pea puree with morels, then the pork belly sliders with mustard and smoked orange marmalade—you’ll know it. Spur may be a little hipper than it needs to be, but the food is all substance.

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