The giddiest trend in Seattle restaurants these days is the mixing of upmarket and downmarket in unexpected ways—serving street food in stylish digs, say, like at Boom Noodle, or foofy food in people’s pubs, like at Quinn’s. The yuppie term for the latter is _gastropub_—but if that sounds too much like a digestive complaint just call it the Pig ’n’ Whistle, the Greenwood watering hole which recently reopened under the culinary direction of the epicureans from Portage, atop Queen Anne. That’s why you’ll find things on the menu like housemade semolina gnocchi, shaved domestic dry-cured ham with pickled vegetables, and duck-fat fries with—ketchup is so yesterday—smoked-tomato jam. Curiously, on an early visit, something—maybe the plain dark-walled decor or alt-music soundtrack or global list of imported bottled brews—drew us toward more traditional pub delights, like fiery-to-the bone chili chicken wings and a plate of terrific fish-and-chips. It may be a gastropub, but we love us some gastrogrub.

Filed under